Mouth-watering kebabs, aromatic biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has forever been a food lovers' paradise, with inhabitants and travelers alike swearing by its exquisite cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, Unesco recognised it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – placing it on a select roster of world cities and igniting hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this status, it becomes part of a worldwide network of over 400 metropolises across over 100 countries committed to promoting "artistic expression as a key factor of city development that is sustainable".
The recognition "is a testament to its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and lively culinary scene," as noted by a representative from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this prestigious list of seventy urban centers around the world.
A City Defined by Food
The recognition for this venerable city is hardly a shock to its residents or avid food lovers. Many share the opinion that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, lively, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is finally in the limelight for what has perennially defined its heart: an immense passion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how will it be cooked' is a ongoing conversation from morning until going to bed in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are often evaluated by the standard of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of Nawabs – as it's widely known after its historic affluent Muslim rulers – is noted for its tender kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were conceived, perfected, and raised to exquisite levels in their imperial kitchens.
These royal kitchens were epicenters of gastronomic creativity, merging Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were fashioned. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was created to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists processed the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Apart from the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just highlights seasonal produce but also gives the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Nearly on countless corners, there are small establishments and stalls – little-known gems that are extremely loved by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, throngs of people start assembling from 5 am at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, offered in earthenware cups, along with pillowy soft buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can make their way to a unpretentious joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also boasts special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert available in the winter. The method of making it is intricate and demanding. The cook beats the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique light consistency.
On chilly mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many though express concern that their children do not want to master the art.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's profound food legacy positions it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – shaped by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is anticipated, will inspire more people globally to explore these narratives and travel to the city to delight in the food wonders of Lucknow.
