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Whenever assembling a list of London’s top dining spots, one might expect renowned award-winning names. But, nestled near the top among these gastronomic titans is a simple salonu situated in a distant corner of northern London.

A Surprise Honour

The compact Turkish eatery, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the fourth best restaurant in the capital by a prominent gastronomic guide. The honour has left the proprietors completely astonished.

“I am totally surprised,” says a owner’s son, pointing to his parents’ dedication that resulted in their humble place securing such a prominent ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

The small shop, which was a basic cafe before its change into a popular food hotspot, has retained much of its former character. It seats just over 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking display, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate place,” comments the owner.

A Star Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all about the fare, and this restaurant more than excels. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a tender quality.

The meat is then added into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. When the savoury mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to absorb all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is rolled securely inside.

It is usually eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a strong punch of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The prominent food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is coated in less syrup than usual, resulting in it a richer, toastier and not overly sweet profile.

Rising Above the Giants

Notably, this modest restaurant has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place satisfied for less than £25, comparable meals at top-tier establishments can run into many times that figure.

The Creed of Warmth

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I don’t agree with that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is shared by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he was in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this spot as a finishing school, to show them the dangers of overcomplication, and to reveal what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Journey of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not work at fancy establishments. “I am very happy of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants require years to become successful, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum would be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a life outside work but her friends would come here to encourage her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these roles made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

An Accomplishment for the People

The restaurant’s accolade is bound to have meaning beyond its own premises. “I believe a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the greater meaning of this gastronomic honour.